If you haven’t already heard, Cyan are running a Kickstarter campaign for Myst’s 25th anniversary! For $99USD you can get a copy of all the games (including the elusive 3 & 4), updated for modern Windows & Mac computers, plus it comes in a box that looks like a Myst linking book. Or for $169USD you can get a book that has a small LCD screen as the linking panel that plays videos, just like a real linking book. Fancy!
It’s no surprise where part of the idea for a Myst book with a screen inside it came from. To quote Rand Miller (Cyan’s CEO and Atrus actor) from the Kickstarter Live AMA, “we’re doing a book with a real linking panel because we’ve wanted one ever since RIUM+ did his”. There’s nothing much I can add to that really. 😛 I plan to do a full teardown and comparison of Cyan’s one once mine arrives (or maybe even before it arrives just based on the published specs), but that’s for a future blog post. For what it’s worth though, based what specs I’ve seen their implementation carries my personal tick of approval – it looks like it will do a fantastic job and make a beautiful product for a reasonable price.
But that’s not what this post is about. This one’s about music. It’s been over a decade since I last played the piano so I’m a little bit rusty, but I’ve dusted off the old skills for a very special purpose.
In honour of the Myst 25th Anniversary Kickstarter, I decided to transcribe & play a piano rendition of Cyan’s logo music!
It just so happens that 10 Instrumental covers is one of the #Myst25 Community Goals. And I have word straight from one of the people that managing the Kickstarter’s community goals that the Cyan intro theme music counts. As such, here’s the files so you can play it too!
A couple notes on these (pun intended) – both the chord complexity and their representations are sitting in the middle between being perfect and being easy to play. By this I mean that I’m skipping a few notes from the chords as I wanted it to be reasonably easily playable on a piano, and the timing in the sheet music isn’t 100% spot on because doing that was far more complicated to describe & decypher than I thought was worth it. Feel free to adapt this to a different instrument, add or remove notes for your own personal style, or fiddle with the timing in the midi file if you’re only intending digital playback.
Play on! 🙂
The Brisbane Arts Theatre is putting on a parody musical called “That 80s Time Travel Movie” and I’ll give you one guess what it’s about. Naturally, my DeLorean was there for the Australian premiere! I thought it was pretty good; I love seeing new spins on the existing content and not just straight quoting or re-telling. Here’s a couple photos I took on opening night.
It’s been so long since I updated this thing, I decided to just start from scratch with a whole new website. Something that’s not, well, entirely coded by hand in Notepad so maybe I’ll be more likely to update it. I’ll re-add more old content whenever I get around to it.
This website isn’t the only thing that’s new though, I’ve just finished another round of modernising the Riven Journals – just in time for Riven’s 20th anniversary!
You should totally check them out!
And if that’s not tempting enough for you, in honour of Riven’s 20th anniversary I’m unveiling some exclusive, previously-unreleased, never-before-seen Riven concept art of the schoolroom Wahrk counting number game:
“Twenty years, Atrus… Twenty. Long. Years.” – Saavedro, Myst III: Exile
Now to wait for Riven’s 25th anniversary…..
Like in many areas, the DeLorean’s cooling system is a little bit different when compared to the average modern car. The coolant radiator is still in the front, but the engine’s mounted in the rear. This not only makes for a very long coolant loop that takes a lot of fluid, but also means the system has multiple high points – meaning you have to bleed the air bubbles out of multiple places. The system wasn’t really designed with ease of maintenance in mind, but thankfully there’s a few upgrades/modifications you can do to make this job easier! So today I’ll be installing one of DeLorean Parts NorthWest’s Wings-B-Cool modifications, a radiator bleeder kit. This procedure can theoretically be done on the car as-is if you’re small & flexible, but I highly recommend jacking up the front right corner & removing the front right wheel to give you plenty of space to work in.
The normal procedure for bleeding the DeLorean’s radiator involves disconnecting a hose, having boiling hot coolant spray all over you in sputtering bursts between the air bubbles, then reattaching the hose again when you think you’ve got rid of all the bubbles. Even worse, if you have the original radiator, the hose barb is plastic and after 35+ years this plastic is very brittle and likely to crack on you, which means you have to replace the entire radiator. Thankfully I have an upgraded metal radiator, but even still it’s not a pleasant procedure. I did it once and swore that I’d do this modification before I had to change my coolant again.
The procedure for this mod is pretty simple – clamp off the hose (or drain your coolant system), cut out a segment of the hose, insert & replace that segment with the kit’s T-valve. I have some clamps specifically designed to close off coolant lines which made this job super simple. I recommend either investing in a pair or borrowing/renting them if you’re planning to do this job without draining the coolant system, because otherwise you’ll end up with coolant everywhere.
Cutting a segment of this hose is probably the most difficult part of this job – and that’s not hard to do at all, which says something about how easy this mod is.
To operate the new coolant radiator bleeder, simply attach a temporary hose to the barb on the T-valve that leads into a suitable container, turn on the car, bring the engine up to operating temperature when the cooling fans cycle, then open the valve. When you no longer see air bubbles in the clear tube, turn off the valve & remove the hose and you’re done – it’s that simple! You might want to do this in multiple goes, topping up the coolant reservoir when necessary to make sure it doesn’t run out – if it gets too low you’ll just introduce more air into the system and then you’ll have to bleed the engine too.
You can also see another mod I recently did to the car on the right of this image – I taped up the gaps between the radiator & its shroud with metal ducting tape (which is a different product to duct tape that is designed to stay stuck at a wide temperature range and also when wet). This means more air goes through the radiator itself instead of going around it through the gaps. I’ve noticed it’s helped my engine stay a little bit cooler, but not by much – I would only recommend it if you have large gaps around your shroud and you also live in a hot climate, but don’t expect it to work any miracles for you. Properly bleeding the radiator will have a larger impact.
Once this radiator bleeder kit was all installed, I bled my radiator with the T-valve just to check it all worked. Interestingly enough, even though I had already bled my system before, I still got a few more air bubbles out of it this time. I guess that goes to show how much more effective this bleeder is vs removing & reattaching the entire hose! I would totally recommend this upgrade to other DeLorean owners, it’s well worth the small price to eliminate a messy job.